Fish is front and centre at Cork’s newest casual dinner spot.
Goldie Fish & Ale opened late last month at 128 Oliver Plunkett Street, promising ‘fantastic fish and more’ with ingredients sourced from small day boats and local producers.
Part of the Elbow Lane group, which also includes Elbow Lane and Market Lane on Oliver Plunkett Street, the Castle Cafe at Blackrock Castle and ORSO on Pembroke Street, the restaurant is named after the city’s famous salmon-shaped weathervane at the top of St Anne’s Church in Shandon.
With a slick interior and a rave review from food critic Tom Doorley under their belt (he described it as “one of the most exciting things to happen food in the city in a very long time”) it’s set to be a busy weekend.
Here’s what you can expect to find on the menu, alongside a host of specials decided on based on the contents of the freshest catch.
Start with a selection of snacks, Smoked mackerel gougère of Crunchy fish spines with house togarashi, both €2.50, or Panko caperberries with soy cured egg yolk (€4).
Elbow Lane beers are brewed in a tiny brewery across the road at Number 4 Oliver Plunkett Street, all formulated specifically to work with the food offered in the five restaurants. Try the Jawbone Pale Ale for a malty hit or the Arrow Weisse for a refreshing citrus kick.
Small plates start at around €6, with Hartys oysters and Mealagulla apple cider vinegar, steamed cockles, cider and creamed watercress, mackerel teriyaki, sesame and seaweed salad and pickled sardines with chopped tomatoes and toast all on offer to kick off an epic meal.
The specials change daily, but main courses include steamed halibut with sea vegetables and a chicken butter sauce (€25), pan seared red mullet and Churchfield vegetable escabeche (€18) and pan seared lemon sole, with a café de Paris hollandaise and cauliflower (€21).
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There’s a roast Ross chicken with confit swede, lemon and anchovy sauce on the menu too and the sides are utterly tantalising; add a Goldie crumpet and seaweed butter, sea salt & malt vinegar shoestring chips, grilled sea kale of house linguini with Bottarga butter sauce to your meal from about €2.50.
Fish tends to be a lighter option for dinner, so with any luck you’ll have room for dessert; a mascarpone and espresso mousse, maybe, or the Achill Island sea salt and caramel budino with hazelnut biscotti.
Goldie Fish & Ale is open Wednesday to Sunday, 5pm ’til late.