There isn’t a Swiss roll to be seen.
Chef Brian Murray opens his new restaurant The Glass Curtain in MacCurtain Street’s iconic Thompsons bakery at 5pm on Wednesday, December 4th and while the setting is a little piece of Cork history, the menu is a thoroughly modern affair.
The newest addition to Cork’s vibrant Victorian quarter, food at the contemporary 36-seater restaurant is designed to share amongst friends, with an extensive drinks list to match and chic decor by local interiors whiz Cathy Angelini of Flamingo Interior Design.
Brian’s menu celebrates organic, seasonal ingredients from Cork’s top-quality producers (many from East Cork where Brian grew up), with exotic influences and flavour combinations from his time spent cooking overseas.
Plates to share
Aperitifs and cocktails are encouraged (the cocktail list is being finalised by manager Gabriella Mastromatteo this week) and small plates include beef bone marrow with grilled onions and parsley (€6.50), grilled flatbread with smoked gouda, honey butter (€7) and beetroot tartar, served with horseradish tofu cream, toasted nori (€6.50).
There’s a grilled calamari and broccoli with ink dressing (€10) and a game terrine, with piccalilli and carrot ketchup (€9) too.
The beef chop is the star of the large plate selection. Served to share, the 36 day dry aged piece of meat is grilled on the bone (€62). There’s a pork collar with tamarind, grilled winter cabbage and peanut rayu (€21) and a grilled flank steak with bone marrow and black pepper jus (€22) that’s sure to satisfy carnivores, while fish fans will be tempted by the hake served with crown prince pumpkin, black tuscan kale and curry saffron butter (€26).
The grilled king oyster mushroom with barley stew and Jerusalem artichokes (€21) sounds tasty, while optional sides include smoked potatoes with beef dripping aioli and charred veg, with yoghurt and tahini.
Thompson House churned out a mile of their trademark Swiss roll every day, but diners at The Glass Curtain can expect a slightly more refined everyday dessert selection (although we did spy a ‘Christmas pudding’ version of the famous cake on their special Festive Menu).
Our money’s on the spiced apple terrine, with Longueville apple brandy sabayon (€7.50).
The Glass Curtain will open Tuesday to Friday, 5pm until late and Saturdays from 12.30pm until late. Check out their website for reservations.